The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on

Richard Mitchell
Richard Mitchell

A passionate gamer and tech writer with over a decade of experience in reviewing video games and analyzing gaming trends.