Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.