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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.